|My bottle of Coque D'or, some slight wear to the gilding.|
|The Opera - Le Coq D'or|
Today I will be reviewing one of the scents within my vintage Guerlain collection, called "Coque D'or", which literally translates into the English word "Golden Shell". It was a play on words based on the 1907 opera "The Golden Cockerel (Le Coq D'or)", by Rimsky-Korsakov as stated by Grace Hummel of Cleopatra's Boudoir. Composed by Jacques Guerlain, Jean Paul Guerlain's grandfather, in 1937, Coque D'or is a dark, boozy, woody, and slightly gourmand chypre perfume with an oriental vibe.
|Un-gilded and Gilded|
|With the wooden box|
According to Grace Hummel of Celopatra's Boudoir, the bottles are contained in two series of boxes. The first series of flacons are luxuriously presented in a wooden presentation cased made of limed oak wood. For the less expensive second series, the box was made out of paper which imitated the appearance of wood.
|"Its Cruella Darling!"|
|Madame De Ville|
The sweet and acidic citrus quality from the candied orange metamorphosed effortlessly with with the peachy, spicy and boozy quality of the Southern Comfort. Intermingling with the mixture are cigarette smokes as well has the dark mossy and leathery chypre quality of her perfume, Bandit. Yes I believe the opening of Coque D'or resembles a blend of Bandit mix with either vintage Mitsouko, Arabie by Serge Lutens, or Femme by Rochas, all of which have a spicy, sweet, boozy touch to it.
|Jafar, Cruella's Date|
Madame De Ville, sitting by her self enjoyed her drink, most gentlemen are too intimidated by her wealth, success, and personality to approach her. Suddenly a mature gentleman wearing a turban, the slickest Arabian silk gown , and smoking a pipe approached Cruella with a bouquet of carnation and roses. It was her date of course, the one and only Mister Jafar, her Arabian love interest, she buried her face into the bouquet to catch a sniff of the flowers ,trying to exclude any of the other interfering smells around her. The flowers smelt lovely ....... spicy carnation and classic, feminine rose, the scent of her Southern comfort, bitter dark-green perfume and cigarette fumes still managed to be detected though, intertwining with the florals to create a sort of mature dirty floral smell......real classy.....or not ...... or is it ?
Towards the end of the perfume's life, about 8 hours, The floral component fades slightly as well as the spicy-sweet and boozy opening, both are still however clearly detectable. The leather and sandalwood base really starts to shine here, giving this scent a slightly animalic and heady finish.
Quite a beautiful scent after all and really made me imagine the story I had just attempted to tell using Disney villains.
|An Advert of Coque D'or|
Current version of Mitsouko, I find far too weak and not viscous enough to compare with Coque D'or. Serge Lutens Arabie is not too similar except the opening of it which has a similar oriental candied, dried, spiced fruit quality to it which I've been trying to describe.
Also please note the perfume I used to test is very old, as you can see the bottle all scratched up above, and therefore some elements of it may not smell like other people's samples or how it's composer meant for it to smell.... I am telling them based on my own sample and how I personally perceive the smell.