Wednesday 5 November 2014

Review: Christian Dior - Diorissimo (1956)

Review: Christian Dior - Diorissimo (1956):

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My baccarat bottle of Diorissimo from the 1950's laying on a bed of fresh and budding freesias moistened by drops of early morning spring rain.
No other fragrance truly represents Spring better than Diorissimo does, in my opinion. Such a green and refreshing floral scent with emphasis the Lily of the Valley also known as Muguet in French. The lily of the valley is an uplifting and bring floral with is native to the cooler parts of Asia and Europe, it typically blooms in Spring and has a unique scent that smells similar to jasmine but without the creaminess or headiness associated with it. According to Dior the lily of the valley was his favourite "lucky/fortune" flower and that Diorissimo is the perfume of his spirit "the scented expression of his soul". He also believed that the lily of the valley represented "hope, happiness, and joy".
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Edmond Roudnitska & lily of the valley (muguet)
Diorissimo was created by Edmond Roudnitska in 1956, with his main goal of wanting to create a scent that was less conventional and sweet at the time, something more simplified and transparent. His inspiration for Diorissimo came from the scent of the Lily of the valley in his garden which he could recall enveloping his senses as he relaxed in his garden. 

Presentations:

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Simplified Amphora/urn presentation
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1980's screw bottle
Diorissimo was available represented in many different packaging and bottles.

Initially in the 1950's Diorissimo came in an amphora shaped baccarat bottle with gold flowers at the top, as pictured on the main image above. Then in the 1960's it was presented in a more simplified and less heavy urn shaped bottle by baccarat.

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1990's flask bottle
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Current Presentation
By the end of the 1960's and throughout the beginning of the 1980's the squarish-oval bottle with a circular screwed on cap became the main presentation for Diorissimo.

 In the 1990's the bottle became even more simple with a flask-like shape bottle with a simple semi-circular cap,the bottle remained similar looking till present day. For more information and details on Diorissimo bottles and dating methods please visit this article on Perfumed Shrine.

The Scent:

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Lily of the Valley
This is without a doubt one of my favourite fragrances of all time, so simple, so representative of spring, yet so effortlessly timeless. Much like Chanel No.5 and Guerlain Shalimar not many fragrances can withstand the test of time and still be in continuous production present days.

http://www.canvaz.com/m/Morgan-Frederick/Picking%20Wild%20Flowers.jpg
Painting by F.Morgan
Diorissimo is quite a linear soliflore, meaning that it is a fragrance that focuses on a single flower as the main star. Soliflores doesn't necessary have to contain just one floral note, in fact most contain more than a few notes in it's composition. I don't have much to say about this fragrance due to the fact that it is very linear and revolves around the lily of the valley.

Spring shower
Diorissimo is like a damp and dewy early spring morning, where dew drops glistened against the luscious, fresh and green buddings of freesias and narcissus. The sun has not yet made it's appearance and the skies are still grey, gloomy and misty from the spring shower which had just recently passed. A gentle breeze blew pass as you take a deep breath, an invisible veil of one of spring's signature flower, the lily of the valley, tingled your nostrils as you became enveloped in it's gentle yet distinctive aroma. Just like an innocent, fresh faced young lady strolling amongst a meadow of flowers. Diorissimo is a youthful floral in my opinion it is definitely light, breezy, and never cloying, it is a great fragrance for those wanting to explore the floral world to start with and also for those who just wants to experience and appreciate one of Christian Dior's masterpieces.

Thursday 11 September 2014

Spring Fragrance Review: Chanel - No.19 Poudre (2011)

Spring Fragrance Review: Chanel - No.19 Poudre (2011):
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Photo of No.19 Poudre by me

A fragrance that's perfect for early spring, composed in 2011 by Jacques Polge, No.19 Poudre is a modern and more youthful interpretation of the classic No.19, which was Coco Chanel's signature scent. The original scent was named after mademoiselle Chanel's birthday - 19th of August 1883.

This fragrance retains the luscious, crisp, and green opening of the original No.19, however the bitter emerald green oakmoss note, a signature of the original, is replaced with a bombardment of powdery Iris (hence the name poudre) and musk.

The Scent:

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Photo by Rowie Piert
No.19 Poudre is quite a sensual, soft, and vulnerable scent that makes me imagine the creases and folds of a woman's gown as flurries of spring breeze playfully flirts with it. It opens quite similar to the original No.19 due to Galbanum which gives the scent it's signature crisp and green opening, perfect for spring .....however the bitter yet so addictive green note of the oakmoss no longer exists here. The green opening does not stay long at all, lasting only about 20 minutes before perishing and wilting away to hide in the background.
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Iris - D.Joa

The scent becomes dominated by a duo of powdery musk and iris, plus occasional spikes of earthy-sweet vetiver as time passes. It's almost as if this lady with her long flowing victorian gown has so much make-up on, that whenever a breeze flutters by teasing and caressing her skin before saying goodbye, it picks up the scent of her lip stick, foundation and shimmering facial powder, carrying microscopic remnants of it into foreign territory. The scents stays quite linear and Iris is the dominant note along with vetiver, musk, and galbanum imprisoned and muffled in the background. I think No.19 Poudre has a potential to be good reference iris scent.

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Windflower - J.Waterhouse
When you come to think of it, comparing No.19 and No.19 Poudre is just like comparing the popular type of perfumes from the time periods. In the 1970's and 80's, bold and daring, non-sweet perfumes with the prominent ingredient being bitter oak moss was a popular choice for women. This can be seen reflected by the scents created during that period such as Jacomo - Silences (1978) & Niki de Saint Phalle (1982). Presently in the 2010's, if that's what you call it, female fragrances tend to be tooth-achingly sweet and anything that isn't sweet would most-likely get the dreadful "old lady" label . . . . Like many perfumes No.19 Poudre is another re-imagining of a classic in order to keep up with the time period where sweetness is amplified, the same can be said about Coco Mademoiselle - a sweeter, more powdery and sensual version of the original Coco.

No.19 Poudre is not a bad fragrance at all when compared to other designer fragrances currently available on the market, considering the fact that it was released in 2011, it still can certainly pass as a perfume from a different time period. Soft and sensual notes makes up the majority of this perfume, however the notes do really last a long time without being invasive or offensive to people near by. I get around 7 hours of moderate projection on my skin and hair. If you are not originally a fan of powdery fragrances but you are looking to add one to collection or to explore it, this scent is a great one to start with.

Thursday 21 August 2014

5 Fragrances for Winter 2014

5 Fragrances for Winter 2014:

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Melbourne by William Watt
It is currently getting close towards the end of winter down here in Melbourne, so I thought I better do a post while the season lasts ! Winter is my least favourite season ... I will even go as far as saying that I hate it, I'm more of a shorts and T-shirt kind of guy. However when it comes to the world of fragrances and the choices available I think winter is one of the best seasons, you have more options and variety for perfumes compared to summer.

During those cooler months of winter where we are restricted to being mostly indoors and surrounded by endless hours of grey skies, it's always fun to research fragrances and ordering samples to try them which is exactly what I did this winter. I will be posting here a recap of the top 5 fragrances I've been wearing for winter this year hopefully it might give you some ideas of new fragrances or fragrance line that you can discover + purchase this winter. Especially with a lot of my readers from the US and Europe where winter will soon be approaching, consider this post for specially written for you.

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In winter you have access to a larger variety of perfumes as opposed to summer where the only ones that seems to be wearable without causing a headache are the lighter citrus-aquatic types. Personally I am not a fan of most citrus and aquatic perfumes as I find them to lack individuality and often resembles another scent, however there are always a few exceptions. During winter one can wear gourmands, heavy florals, oud, floral leathers, aromatics, spicy, woods, chypres etc without having to worry about offending those around nor giving them self a nausea, the choices are so much more diverse. Another reason why denser, heavier scents are popular in winter is because your body heat doesn't radiate as much as in summer therefore in order for a perfume to be detectable and last with limited body heat, it will need to be more concentrated.

What I've been wearing:
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1) Tom Ford - Tobacco Vanille :
Ultra rich, opulent and intoxicating combination of gourmand creamy-vanilla and sweet-spicy tobacco. This one will definitely warm you up in winter and leave you smelling irresistibly delicious. It is part of Tom Ford's Private Blend line and can be found in Melbourne at Harrolds on Collins Street or at David Jones in Chadstone & Bourke Street. Lasts over 12 hours with strong silage throughout.
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2) Vivienne Westwood - Let it Rock :
A caramel-like, oriental-gourmand cheapie that smells like 200 bucks. Another comfort fragrance that makes the wearer feel cozy and at home. Smells unique, very high quality with strong projection and longevity, comes in a beautiful elongated bottle which would cost you under $30 for a 50ml EDP. Nothing can go wrong! Be aware if you do not like patchouli, stay from this one as it contains a heavy patchouli note.
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3) Chanel - Egoiste :
Classy and mature, a scent for a true gentleman. A luxurious sandalwood-tobacco fragrance, just enough woods and leather to keep the scent from being too cloying or feminine while the sweetness of this scent and it's floral heart remains noticeable without being too flamboyant. One of the classics of perfumery, definitely a gem to add to any man's collection. Excellent longevity with moderate silage, released in 1990 and still continues to be a strong seller.
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4) Christian Dior - Addict (original) :
A rich, creamy and opaque concoction of vanilla, tonka bean, and white flowers. For some reason this scent just makes me think of Indian rich pudding......sweet and fragrant with a hint of spices. This scent has great performance in winter you can feel your self being wrapped in it's cashmere-like veil with each spray. Lasts throughout the day and projects excellently.

http://images.selfridges.com/is/image/selfridges/496-3001182-99001_M?$PDP_M$5) Robert Piguet - Fracas :
If you love heavy doses of white flowers then you'll definitely love Fracas... The most successful fragrance from Robert Piguet, Fracas is luxury inducing and is unmistakably potent. Fracas is a cauldron of  white flowers, notably sacchariferous tuberose, viscous jasmine and creamy gardenia
I highly recommend Fracas for anyone who loves strong white flowers, it's a great reference white floral.

Saturday 2 August 2014

Review: Jean Paul Gautier - Fragile (1999)

Jean Paul Gautier - Fragile (1999):
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My new arrival "Jean Paul Gautier - Fragile"

The feeling of "Christmas comes early", that sudden boost of joy and excitement....That is the feeling I get every time the courier man turns into my drive way with his white van. This morning I received  a package containing a used bottle of Jean Paul Gautier's Fragile, which I have bought for a very cheap price on eBay. I have always wanted to add this fragrance to my collection for a very long time mainly due to it's breathtakingly stunning and exquisitely presented bottle.
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My first memory of this scent goes way back to when it was first released in 1999, my aunt used to wear this fragrance on a regular basis and it did annoy a few people around her due to it's potent silage. She would wear this all year, even on scorching summer days, that is how much she loved this scent. Anyway, I love the way it smelt on her and the trail that it would leave as she walked pass different areas of the house. My aunt is a fragrance collector as well, as mentioned on my earlier post about my first perfume, and probably one of the main reason why I have so many fond memories in relation to perfumes, which eventually inspired me to become a collector my self.

http://www.napaman.com/.a/6a00d8353b464e69e2014e8c3f63eb970d-320wihttps://witchsweb.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/569437-bigthumbnail1.jpgBefore I moved to Australia my grandmother had a gigantic house with a ridiculous amount of rooms, around 40 if not more, intended for all her children and grand children to stay together as a big giant family. I used to take regular visits to my aunt's bed room located on the 5th floor of the mansion, I remembered that climbing up those dark wooden stairs alone was a long and terrifying journey it self. Along the way to my destination I would have to confront series of elaborately carved hanging wall statues which my grandmother loved but they used to send shivers down my spine, especially at night. Finally once I have finally arrived at my aunt's room, she would let me sit and admire her magnificent and grand collection of perfumes ....... out of the 100's of bottles laid out along her perfume shelf, "Fragile" would always be the bottle which I seem to have noticed and remembered vividly for all these years.


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Francis Kurkdjian
The fragrance was composed by the very famous, Francis Kurkdjian, and was released in 1999. The word "Fragile" can be seen printed on the box in a playful style, a signature of Gautier. The bottle it self is a work of art, and a very creative concept, a "Showgirl-esque" type of lady seductively dressed is centered inside a snow globe styled bottle filled with sparkling glitter entrapped and suspended by the golden liquid that is the perfume. A genius concept, with the glitters signifying a sort of celebration, applause, and spot light which focuses it's attention to the bewitching figure in black. Sort of suggests to the wearer that if you wear this perfume, all those attention could be on you, you will sure be noticed.

The Scent:

Jessica Rabbit by chronicbetchface
of Deviantart.com
Starts off very delicious and floral, intoxicating concoction of jasmine, rose , tuberose, neroli and citrus opens the show while the other notes are putting finishing touches to their costumes before they are due to perform. A sweet, floral, and delicious combination,very seductive and potent.

This perfume wears on to be less sharply citrus and floral as the gourmand base kicks in and take over the show, vanilla, star aniseed, cinnamon, became prominent while the presence of the floral opening still lingers on, as they refuse to be easily forgotten by it's audiences. For the finale, spotlights are on the Iris, Cedar wood, and musk, this trio adds a touch of sensual powderiness towards the overall feel of "Fragile".


Overall this perfume is gorgeous, feminine, and voluptuous. I am very disappointed that it got discontinued. Just the bottle alone is worth paying for and owning, it is just so stunningly beautiful. Lasts around 7 hours on my skin, with heavy silage for the first 3 hours and moderate from then onwards. A distinctively feminine perfume, I don't see any man being able to pull this off at all, unless you are very flamboyant and have an unorthodox style. Think of John Galliano, this would be something he could pull off. Highly recommended, a master piece from the house of Jean Paul Gautier.

Wednesday 30 July 2014

The Liebster Award

The Liebster Award:

I had no idea what this award was when I was nominated, but after some research I found out that the Liebster award is basically a way for bloggers to connect. It's a nice way to get to know one another and discover new blogs/bloggers that may interest you. I've been nominated by Noemi from Italy, she runs a fashion/style blog called "http://www.webelieveinstyle.net". We first met on instagram, she is very lovely, lots of fun to talk to, and of course has great taste!


The rules of the Liebster award are:
• You must answer all the questions that are given to you.
• Must link back to the person that nominated you.
• Nominate 11 bloggers who have less than 200 followers.
• Provide the nominees with 11 questions of your choice.
• Must inform nominees of your nomination.
• Provide nominees with a link to your post for more info.


 Answers to the Questions I was Asked:

1. Who's your favorite blogger and why?
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The purchase that formed our friendship
"Shalimar Yellow Gold Edition"
I love a lot of blogs and I am a fan of many .... so it is extremely difficult for me to pick a favourite. However if I had to choose 1, I would pick "Sorcery of Scent".  I first stumbled upon this fantastic blog while doing some research on vintage Guerlains, I also bought an item from Dimitri, the owner of the blog, on eBay without even realizing it was him! Long story short, we ended up talking a bit and found out we have so many things in common like how we used to live on the same street, we both love vintage perfumes and went to the same school etc and became good friends after that. He is also one of my inspirations for starting out my own perfume blog, I just admire his style of writing and the images he uses.


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Serena Williams Book
2. What's your favorite book?
Well....reading ....I have to admit I am not a big fan of reading because I can't seem to sit still for too long without getting bored! I do love reading autobiographies about the people I admire/ inspires me like Coco Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Serena Williams, and John Galliano etc. I also love reading picture/fact books like "The Guinness World Records" and books about perfumes.There was also a fictional book which I really loved and made me nostalgic everything I think about it, however I unfortunately forgotten it's name!
3. If you could live in the past, just for one week, which historic period would you choose?
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Please take me there right now!
Would I get to choose who I am? I have always fantasied about the idea of living as a rich aristocrat in the Victorian era ....All those vintage items for me to buy! The architecture, the atmosphere, the people in fancy dresses! I do feel I was born in the wrong period to be honest, sometimes. I have always enjoyed doing things the traditional way ....for example, I am not a fan of the internet and how everything these days involves something "online", I prefer Victorian architecture, I prefer vintage items over new ones, I just love everything vintage! I do have to admit tho, living in the modern world does have many benefits such as supermarkets and the various different products, better health care, better hygiene, faster transportation, being more well informed though news and the internet, and being able to get things done faster due to technology.

4. Who's your favorite designer?
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Mr Versace
I'm glad you asked. My favourite fashion designer is Gianni Versace, I just love his style so much. Even though I would never dare wear some of his crazy and avant-garde designs, I feel that if I am a fashion designer my designs would turn out very similar to his. Lots of colours, lots of accessories, lots of elaborate patterns, striking and daring designs, did I mention I am madly obsessed about his Medusa head logo? To me it is the BEST logo ever created. It's also worth mentioning that my other favourite designers are John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, and Coco Chanel. All of them, except Chanel, has very eccentric and bold yet classy designs, I think you see a common trend haha!

5. If you could have one accessory, whatever the price is, what would it be?
http://designandculturebyed.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/20130418-071449-am.jpghttp://www.salvospagna.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Luxury_Leather_Bag_-_Stefano_Ricci.pngOh gosh this may be a long answer with lots of options from me...I guess if I am allowed to resell it, I would pick a super super expensive item of some sort and then resell it, the use the money to buy my self a nice house etc. Cus I'd rather have a nice mansion y'all!
However not to ruin the game! .... I will assume that it cannot be resold and it's mine to keep and not to be given away. This is so tough!, I would probably pick either one of those mega expensive limited edition Guerlain perfumes.....but I don't think perfumes are considered as "accessories". At this point in time I would pick either a nice Stefano Ricci man bag or this beautiful Lanvin Arpege perfume bottle minaudiere I've been drooling over.

6. The three make up (or beauty) products you can't live without.
I am a guy so I have no idea about make up products. I would move this over to my manly vanity products  instead....so I would pick:
http://www.colgateprofessional.com.ph/LeadershipPH/Products/Images/ProductShot_DentalTape.jpghttp://static.weloveshopping.com/shop/client/000065/Wonderfulbeauty/6678387.jpghttp://www.chanel.com/en_US/fragrance-beauty/cms2export/Site1Files/P125420/S125530_LARGE.jpg1. My perfumes! In particularly Chanel No.5
2. Dental Floss! I cannot and I refuse to sleep if I don't floss my teeth..I am obsessed with having squaky teeth, can't stand that sandy feeling.
3. Facial moisturizer I guess?! I have pretty dry skin and gets flaky if I don't moisturize. Currently I am using Smooth E. Planning on getting the Chanel Hydra Creme after I run out of my current moisturizer.

7. If you could spend one day with one celebrity or artist, writer, designer, who would you choose?
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Coco Chanel
Dead or alive? you did not mention. I would love to spend some time with Mademoiselle Chanel, helping her with her designs and perfume creations! I have always admired her and been captivated by her strong-willed character, plus I would love to go live with her in her apartment in that period and see what it's like even if it's just for a day. Haha and I will also assume that she will understand English because I don't speak French!!

8. What's your favorite city?
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Paris! I visited Paris for the first time ever earlier this year and I wished I didn't have to leave. That city is BEAUTIFUL! Amazing architecture, numerous luxury designer boutiques, amazing atmosphere! Even thought it was quite cold and I hate the cold, I am willing to tolerate it just to be able to live in such a gorgeous city. Time for me to learn French and find a job in Paris!

9. Who's your fashion icon (if you have one)?
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Tom Ford
This sounds similar to question 4...However I guess fashion icon means anyone that I admire to style of? I'm not really the one to accessorize nor do I dare to wear those loud clothing. I really admire Tom Ford and the way he represents himself, always clean and suited up! Simplistic and classy!

10. What's your favorite music?
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Please don't laugh but my favourite song is My Neck My Back by Khia....when I'm happy, and my favourite artist is Britney Spears. Another notable mention is Why can't this night go on forever by Journey, this is my favourite song when I'm feeling nostalgic and a bit down.

11. Define yourself using three words.
Artistic, Organized, Friendly

Wednesday 23 July 2014

Duo Review: Illamasqua - Freak (2011)

Illamasqua - Freak (2011):

http://www.illamasqua.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/r/freak-model_1.jpg
An Advertisement for Freak
Today I will be reviewing a scent with one of the most unique concept/story behind it ever! (in my opinion at least), Freak by the British cosmetic house "Illamasqua". I will be writing my own review as well as featuring a review by Lily (http://instagram.com/redlily10), how perfect, a unisex scent with reviews by a male (myself) and a female (Lily) to guide you. Simply put, 2 reviews in 1!

What got me into wanting to test Freak so badly was the concept behind it and the "Toxic" notes. Freak is a fragrance to "Celebrate the Night and Darkness" and is composed of "Exotic and Dangerous Flowers". With top notes of Datura, Opium Flower and Belladonna. Mid notes of Poison Hemlock, Datura and Queen of the Night blossom, and a base notes of Frankincense, Oud and Myrrh. Belladonna (Aka Deadly Nightshade), Datura, and Poison Hemlock for example, have been notoriously used as noxious poisons in some cultures for centuries.

Freak is accompanied with the following words on it's box:

" I am Exquisitely rare. Mysterious midnight blooms. Unfurling only for Luna's light Datura, Black Davana, Poison Hemlock and Queen of the night. 
 A covert gethering of forbidden flowers. Brought together in love's darkest hour .I am magical, timeless. Utterly unforgettable. I AM Bottled midnight  I AM FREAK



The Scent: 
http://img.dooyoo.co.uk/GB_EN/315/fashion-beauty/fragrances/illamasqua-freak-eau-de-toilette.jpgInitially upon discovering this perfume one evening, while watching some perfume reviews on YouTube, I thought to my self...."Those notes! Wow!...I MUST try this one!" especially since I am so into the more unusual perfumes and perfume concepts. This was not available in Australia at the time and was almost impossible to find a site that ships to Australia online, I went through a whole lot of cash to get this while I was on holiday in Bangkok. I ended up spending $300 at an Illamasqua counter buying all 3 versions and flankers of Freak....long story short.

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Pirouetting
I was excited that I finally get to smell and try the scent that I have been hyping
up for so long and experience those "Concoction of Toxic Flowers" with my very own nose. To be honest, based on the packaging, the notes and stories I was expecting something more dark, dense, opulent and unusual ....but nevertheless the scent that I had experienced is a pleasant one, but certainly not what was expected.

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Datura By G. Saenz
What I got was a gathering of white flowers waltzing and twirling over a mellow and soothing incense base. Opens with pixies adorned a dress made from Datura petals, twirling and pirouetting frictionlessly in the stilled autumn air filled with hazy incense and narcotic smoke of Opiums in an enchanted forest illuminated by the iridescence moonlight. Further into the wearing, the floral aspect of this scent settles down and becomes less invasive, as a more masculine base of powdery incense and "almost-dark but not quite there" oud takes over.

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Belladonna
Opens quite feminine, however settles into a perfectly unisex and more masculine dry down quite quickly. Longevity and projection are slightly below average to me, if sprayed on my skin, however lasts up to 10 hours with great silage if sprayed on my clothing. For the current retail price of around $70, I think it is worth it, an overall pleasant fragrance, even if it's what you would expect from the hype and description. It does smell fairly unique but does have aspects similar to a few other perfumes out there, but does not smell the same. Quite niche for the price of non-niche, give this "Freak" a chance !

Lily's Review : 

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Collage by Lily. http://instagram.com/redlily10
Illamasqua 'Freak'- I place this scent in the category of 'Nouveau-gothic' scents, epitomized from bottle to fragrance. Pristine piousness yielding to secretive (wanton) desires. Faint powdery traces, squeaky soapy aspect, 'Aldehydic' in nature. Enchanting florals considering their derivation however there is no need for wariness here, only plenty of enjoyment. High degree of cultivation, there is nothing to indicate that this fragrance belongs in the genre of commercialized perfumes. 

An original by my estimation.As for the claim of this being a unisex fragrance, the opening leans greatly toward a feminine facet however the heart is neutral.The oud is not overly pronounced, but obviously present which with the base tends to, for me display a shift to a masculine facet. I am still undecided on the subject. I imagine a character such as Wilhelmina Harker doused in this immaculate scent, imposing transcendence.I am in awe of this perfume.Superb longevity, 5hrs+, and silage. I would recommend this fragrance for anytime you are in the mood for the brazenly Bohemian. 

Freak: 
1. a very unusual and unexpected event or situation. 
2. a person, animal, or plant with an unusual physical abnormality.

Tuesday 15 July 2014

Review: Serge Lutens - De Profundis (2011)

Serge Lutens - De Profundis (2011):
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My Bottle of De Profundis

Most of the time when we think of the concept which inspired the creation of perfumes, one would often think ....flowers, fruits, happiness, joy, nature etc. On some rare occasions there are perfumes which offers a different experience to the usual, inspired by something darker and more mysterious such as death and funerals in the case of "De Profundis", or perhaps a tomb and its air - Guerlain's Djedi - is worth mentioning. This is what gotten so many of us hooked onto this rare ,but increasingly popular, hobby of perfumery .....the story behind each creation and the creative ideas, histories, ingredients, and craftsmanship that goes into them never fail to intrigue me. There are so much more behind a bottle of perfume than just the way it smells....although this seems to go by un-noticed and un-appreciated by the majority of non fragrance fans.

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Christopher Sheldrake
Ever since I started my hobby of collecting and studying different scents....there are a few scents which I stumbled upon on fragrantica which I knew I "MUST" smell and own.....One of them is of course Serge Luten's "De Profundis". The story and inspiration behind it is just too good to remain un-sniffed!

 De Profundis was composed by Christopher Sheldrake in 2011. It is quite rare considering that it can only be bought in the Serge Luten boutique in Paris....for 170 Euros. I am also pretty sure you can purchase it online if you are in the US from Luten's website for a whopping $300 USD. I am lucky enough to be able to own a pre-loved bottle with half remaining.

The Scent & Story:

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Chrysanthemum on a grave
De Profundis (De profundis clamavi - From the Depths I Cried) is a greenish floral perfume with an earthy undertone. It is centered mainly on the Chrysanthemum flower - in a number of Europian countries such as France, Italy and Spain just to mention a few. .. . . . Chrysanthemums are symbolic to death and are used for funerals and graves. Other featured notes soil tincture, green notes, violet, incense, and plum tree - a very serene composition indeed.

"De Profundis" is accompanied by the following words:

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Painting By Jean Osbourne
"When death steals into our midst, its breath flutters through the black crepe of mourning, nips at funeral wreaths and crucifixes, and ripples through the gladiola, chrysanthemums and dahlias.
If they end up in garlands in the Holy Land or the Galapagos Islands or on flower floats at the Annual Nice Carnival, so much the better!
What if the hearse were taking the deceased, surrounded by abundant flourish, to a final resting place in France, and leading altar boys, priest, undertaker, beadle and gravediggers to some sort of celebration where they could indulge gleefully in vice? Now that would be divine!
In French, the words beauty, war, religion, fear, life and death are all feminine, while challenge, combat, art, love, courage, suicide and vertigo remain within the realm of the masculine.
Clearly, Death is a Woman. Her absence imposes a strange state of widowhood. Yet beauty cannot reach fulfilment without crime. " (source: www.fragrantica.com)

Scent:

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/236x/c1/f4/1d/c1f41dbb8fab07c81886f8738d6012d6.jpg For me this perfume isn't something that I would personally associate with death....the imagery that I get from imagining death would be something terrifying and dense/foul smelling ...De Profundis does not smell anything like that. Instead De Profundis makes me think more of the concept of being dead and "At peace", just imagine a peaceful and serene cemetery surrounded by flowers and large trees.

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Peaceful Cemetery
Opens with a melancholic murmur of Chrysanthemum and powdery violet, buried underneath the bed of florals I can detect the unusual soil tincture note. It's like being in a tranquil cemetery, you are surrounded by hundreds of tomb stones and peaceful souls with the aroma of flowers bought by loved ones filling the air. Damp dew drops settling on the surface of the dead earth are warmed up by the morning sun rays causing the smell of moistened earth to climb and waltz along with the floral notes silkily.

30 minutes into application, green notes disappears and now you get mostly Chrysanthemum with faint chantings of violet and soil tincture hovering around. The scent remains quite linear and smells quite "white floral" towards the end of the application.
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Painting By V.Danu

This scent is something that you have to experience yourself to be able to understand. You may also have a different interpretation of the concept to mine as well .....we all associate different notes to contrasting events quite individually and that's what makes each one of us unique!. I would recommend all fragrance lovers to smell this one for sure....It is a truly humbling experience and the story that goes along with it is even more superb.